Pioneer Crossing West HOA

Thanks for the helpful information, I am sure it will help those of us who don't have green fingers.

It is not a good idea to use fertilizers or weed and feeds before it rains.  Cloudburst or fast rain fall will wash the chemicals into the sewer system.  Use these chemicals when you can control the amount of moisture needed to water them in.

Around here, and lately you never know if it is going to be a slow drizzle  or a downpour.

You are absolutely right…thank you for the correction! While I have successfully caught drizzles and light showers to soak it in slowly, our black clay soil absorbs water slowly and with a quick, heavy rain (like the one we had the other night) it’s likely to wash off the chemicals in the runoff. I was incorrect to suggest that idea. Ideally, you should follow the application instructions on the bag and water in lightly using your hose or sprinkler system to avoid runoff carrying the chemicals into the drainage system. Another precaution along the same lines would be to sweep (or use a yard blower) any overspread fertilizer off the sidewalk, driveway, or street back into the grass, again, to avoid it washing into the drainage system (plus, if your fertilizer contains Iron, it can create rust stains on the cement).

Mow High

1. Tall grass shades the roots and soil better, keeping them cooler and retaining more moisture.
2. Tall grass tends to crowd out weeds better. All plants need sunlight to produce food through photosynthesis and tall grass is better able to compete with the weeds, especially the low growing ones!
3. The blade portion of your grass is where the photosynthesis process happens, so more blade area means more ability to create food!

• Set your lawn mower to the highest setting. Mowing high (3" or highest mower setting) allows the grass to develop a deep root system and helps your lawn use water better.
• Some people think that healthy lawns look like putting greens. The fact is, longer grass grows longer, healthier roots. By raising the setting on your lawnmower, you'll do a lot to help your grass grow thick and healthy. A thick lawn keeps weeds out.
• Most people cut their lawn too short. Set your mower to its highest or second-highest setting to encourage deep roots and effective use of moisture already in the soil.

Just wanted to say thanks for the lawn tips! I am having ALOT of trouble with weeds. I moved in a couple of months ago and spend the first 3 weekends working on the lawn pulling weeds. I got the lawn pretty clear of them then took a couple of weeks off and they came back with a vengeance. No matter how often I pull them they always come back quickly. I would like to stop spending all my time in the yard hunched over pulling weeds. I have always heard that weed and feed is not good on the environment but at this point I am ready to try anything. Do you have any other tips for weed control. I've already set my mower to the highest setting but the lawn really hasn't come on strong yet so it's not even as high as the highest setting on the mower.

Also, the area between the sidewalk and the curb is completely full of weeds are we responsible for keeping it weed-free or simply keeping that area mowed and edged?

Thanks for any help you can give,
Ken Klein

There are a number of options depending on your weeds and your preferences. There seems to be two types of weeds most common in our area: broadleafs like the dandelion or thistle, and grass types like Dallisgrass or Johnsongrass. The Dandelion and thistle type weeds have a ‘tuber’ type root looking somewhat like a white carrot, and the Dallisgrass and Johnsongrass have rhizome roots that look something more like a tangle of spaghetti.

Probably the most preferred method of control is physical removal (pulling weeds). To make this effective as possible, it is very important to do your best to remove the entire root and not just rip off the aboveground portion of the plant. I recommend doing this the day after a rain (or a day after watering your lawn) as this will help soften the soil and make it easier to get all the roots. A weeding fork also helps break the soil around the weed thereby reducing the amount of force required to pull the root system. I would use a pair of supple gardening gloves or even some Playtex dishwashing gloves to protect your hands and make sure you grasp the weed as close as possible to the ground when you pull it. The Dandelion and Thistle weeds have a hollow trunk that easily crushes and then separates from the root if you’re not careful.

If you’re already overwhelmed by the sheer volume, you may want to consider chemical means to supplement. If you look at the Scott’s recommended fertilizing schedules, you’ll notice the spring schedule recommends a feed and weed fertilizer for both St. Augustine and Bermuda. These likely contain a pre-emergent to catch the weeds as the seeds begin to grow. You may still want to try this to prevent any new plants while you deal with the ones you’ve got now.  

To chemically treat the current weeds in your lawn will be tricky. You will want to wait for a weather forecast of several dry days to prevent washing the herbicide off. You can use something like Ortho’s Round Up or Fertilome’s Double Play (both contain a herbicide called glysophate that should be effective on both types of weeds), but these aren’t intended to be sprayed across the lawn, and even spot treatment requires care to apply properly. To prevent damage to your lawn and minimize chemical use, you can paint or sponge the herbicide onto the weeds, but be sure to follow instructions and wear protective equipment such as goggles, splash protecting safety glasses, and rubber gloves to avoid contact. The Green Living link below also has some ideas for some more ‘earth friendly’ weed control such as vinegar, salt, and soap, but be aware that they can contaminate the soil around them as well and make it difficult to grow anything for weeks or months after application.

As for the space between the sidewalk and curb, I couldn't give you a legal ruling, but my assumption is that this area is our property, even if it is part of an easement, so we are responsible for it.

I hope this helps!

http://www.ci.austin.tx.us/growgreen/downloads/weeds.pdf

http://www.greenlivingtips.com/articles/38/1/Earth-friendly-weed-killer.html

I just happened to catch a commercial on TV last night for a product called Ortho Weed-B-Gone MAX. It appears to be designed to kill weeds in the lawn without damaging the lawn. I tried to find out more from the web and found a few posts with about a 3 out of 4 with a positive experience with it.

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/269492/ortho_weedbgon_max_weed_killer_for.html?cat=32

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/2061915/ortho_weed_bgon_to_buy_or_not_to_buy.html?cat=32

http://www.epinions.com/reviews/Ortho_Weed_B_Gon_Max_Lawn_Weed_Ready_To_Spray

I also looked it up on the manufacturers website at:

http://www.scotts.com/smg/catalog/productCategorySubSelf.jsp?DispPagination=no&startValue=1&itemCount=9998&itemId=cat50064&id=cat50064

I noticed there were several varieties, and one is designed for southern lawns (st.augustine) so take notice of the label if you decide to try it. At the bottom of the list, I also happened to notice a Weed-B-Gon Spot Weed Killer for St. Augustine. It contains the same active ingredient (Atrazine) as the Scott's Bonus S that I swear by, but it only claims to be effective on 24 weed varieties whereas the Weed-B-Gon MAX claims to control over 250.

Up till now, the weather had been fairly cool and we had quite a bit of rain this year. There hasn’t been much of a need to turn on the sprinklers. In fact, during the early spring and late fall, when temperatures are cooler, water doesn’t evaporate as quickly and overwatering is a concern. If the soil surface doesn’t dry out occasionally, it can result in the growth of fungus. With warmer weather patterns starting up though, it’s probably safe to start discussing watering. My favorite watering tip would be to water deep (see below). Above ground, plant stems and leaves grow toward sunlight, and below ground their roots grow toward moisture. Water well enough to soak the soil and then wait and watch for the grass to signal you when it’s ready for more water. As the soil surface loses moisture to evaporation, the roots grow downward to follow the receding moisture. I’ve read ½” to ¾” of water is the desired amount for St.Augustine. Set out an empty tuna fish can or pet food can and see how long it takes to fill it with ½” to ¾” of water (possibly different amounts of time with different sprinklers). Watch to make sure the soil can absorb the water fast enough, otherwise you will have water running off before you are done. The thing to avoid is light daily waterings as this will encourage the grass roots to grow toward the surface and leave your grass vulnerable to burning during the hottest parts of the summer. I’ve copied some info from the Scotts Website below concerning watering and I found a link to RealGreenLawns with lots of good information for lawn care in the Austin area.

http://www.realgreenlawns.com/austin_tx_texas/st_augustine_grass.htm

Water the Right Way

Lawns need water, but not too much or too little. Give your lawn a deep watering about once or twice a week. Frequent, shallow watering doesn't do much for lawns, but it's really helpful for weeds. Too little water stresses the lawn, and invites still more weeds to set up shop in your yard.

Water Deep

To encourage roots to grow downward, water deeply and then try to allow as long as possible before watering again. As the upper soil dries, the roots are encouraged to grow downward to follow the moisture (You can tell when your grass needs watering because the blades dry or wilt and the color changes from a somewhat emerald green to more of a sage green). If you water lightly and often, the highest moisture area is near the surface and roots will grow toward the surface where the moisture is. A higher percentage of your water is lost to evaporation this way, and if you suddenly stop watering (due to restrictions or whatever) your grass is more prone to damage from the drying topsoil.

Rely on Rain.

Your lawn will begin to wilt when water is needed. As much as possible, take advantage of nature's sprinkler and rely on the rain to water your lawn.